Ive been here in peru for a month now.I have not payed much attention to this blog or even emails to the familie (im alive mum).Its quite easy for time to pass by with a blur when your living a cruisy life by the beach when days are filled soley with eating, surfing and maybe a little travel to eat and surf somewhere else.
And a blur is exactly what the last month is to me.Ive been bussing up,down and around the coast searching,dodging and riding waves.
You know when you look at small ants running around hurrily,stopping at another ant every now and then,obviously to communicate,then running of in no order,left,right,back around then home again for a feed.Well thats basicsally what ive been up to since in peru.Left,right then back around.
Ive seen a shitload of desert,real desert with no growth at all and done some pretty solid bus hours.There are so many sparce landscapes here and i love the way the buildings blend in.The house's are made from mud brick and come out the same color as the surroundin desert wether it be from the dust wind stains or the ingredients.Either way it looks natural and is a nice change from those big ugly colorful peice's of junk that ruin our natural coast of australia.Eat the rich.
Anyway its all good.I have a few bass'es in different towns along the coast and travel between them depending on the surf.Surfing time is nearly up though as im keen to see the rest of the country's marvels inland and because of the way time is sliding away (along with my bank account) i figure the sooner i hit the mountains the better.
All is good though on the northern coast of peru,the people are cool,lifes cheap and the surfs good.
wink wink
16 August 2006
HUANCHACO AND THE SCULPTER
I went solo to a liitle town on the coast of peru known for chilling out amongst the beach culture.
Its also known for their claim to have the first ever surfers on the planet.
The local fisherman have these boat-canoe typed things woven out of straw.The stand on them and use a paddle to got out to the ocean the do their fishing for me to eat at the local restuarant.
Now to get back in they surf these straw boats back in on the waves.It looks similar to the guy steering at the back of the boat in those big iron-man rigs.Imressive yes and they claim to have been doing this for centurie´s, hence the worlds first wave-riders aka-surfers.
There are also ruins and pyramids here but that is for another day.
So yeah,i rocked into town,immediately got snaffled by a local crazy kid and introduced to the whole town and most travellers there.It was cool,so many good people in such a short space of time.They were all welcoming and interesting and i decided i liked this place and would maybe base myself here for the next month.Thats when i went to check out some accomodation,not a hostel but a house.
There i met Luis,who previously i only knew was a sculptur (and philosopher) with a room to stay.
His house was great,completely rustic with sculptures everywhere and allmost a natural work of art.On top of that luis was a great man with a big smile and also a surfer.Perfect place for me i thought and lodged there before i could even ask.
It was so cool, i ahd a pet turtle that would'nt come out from under my bed unless it wanted to shit right where i walked in my bare feet.(not finished)
Its also known for their claim to have the first ever surfers on the planet.
The local fisherman have these boat-canoe typed things woven out of straw.The stand on them and use a paddle to got out to the ocean the do their fishing for me to eat at the local restuarant.
Now to get back in they surf these straw boats back in on the waves.It looks similar to the guy steering at the back of the boat in those big iron-man rigs.Imressive yes and they claim to have been doing this for centurie´s, hence the worlds first wave-riders aka-surfers.
There are also ruins and pyramids here but that is for another day.
So yeah,i rocked into town,immediately got snaffled by a local crazy kid and introduced to the whole town and most travellers there.It was cool,so many good people in such a short space of time.They were all welcoming and interesting and i decided i liked this place and would maybe base myself here for the next month.Thats when i went to check out some accomodation,not a hostel but a house.
There i met Luis,who previously i only knew was a sculptur (and philosopher) with a room to stay.
His house was great,completely rustic with sculptures everywhere and allmost a natural work of art.On top of that luis was a great man with a big smile and also a surfer.Perfect place for me i thought and lodged there before i could even ask.
It was so cool, i ahd a pet turtle that would'nt come out from under my bed unless it wanted to shit right where i walked in my bare feet.(not finished)
CHICAMA
Another surf storie here and probably a few more to come as i have come to peru solely to surf.
When i arrived at this place i ran into the town pisshead,his name is jimmy-aka "ceviche".He is from the states but lives in chicama-aka "Puerto Malibrigo".
Jimmy can be found on any given day from seven in the morning to about seven at night.Sunglass's on,beard,messed up white hair and without a doubt a glass of beer in his hand.This guy was the best beer drinker i have seen for a while,no lies,eight am and on it.
Anyway i talked to him within the first ten minutes of getting into town,told him i was ozzy and he said "oh another ozzie".Turned out there were other ozzies here ant not just from oz but from Torquay.I asked if he had blonde hair and ol jimmy said,"oh brock,yeah i know brock" in a pissed drawn out californian accent.
I hit the hostel on the cliff "El Hombre" and was greeted with brocky and another dood i had met in torquay last year.Good doods everywhere and el hombre was to become a temporary second home with Doris and her sister Maria.They looked after us well and we paid them back by buying loads of beer from them.
Now to the wave.Well i had never seen such a surreal sight in my life,and this was to last everyday i awoke there.The ocean meets the desert with a big sandy cliff running kilometers out to a headland.Along the base of this long massive headland lies the longest breaking lefthanded wave in the world.
No shit photo's and words can't do this place justice,it is longer than long,its on another scale.
The wave is more often than not small but breaks with perfect shape,allways clean and offshore,little tubes,no crowds and obviously very long.I never thought it possible but the walk back to the point actually gets really annoying because of its length.
To surf the wave you go past the point,paddle around with the current,wait for a set and surf the whole set for 1.8 kms.If you fall off you just get the next wave,no paddling back out.A good run is two to three good waves and an exeptional run is one wave but your legs really do hurt after half way.The shortest wave here will still be longer than anything you have ever ridden anywhere.It sure is good practice.sooo many waves.
Sounds like a lie huh,i did'nt beleive this place actually existed even while i was there.It felt like a vortex in time,a dream or a surfers subconcious playground,completely surreal.
I had sooo many memorable waves here but nothing big,just perfection.I even travelled nine hours by bus to buy a surfboard just for this wave.
I met good people there also,alex the grom from california who's auntie runs the hostel on the point(talk about a set up surfing life,that kid is set).Met lotsa ozzies,on another visit ran into jule's who is a friend from australia.Did a little salsa lesson with brockie's new girlfriend he-he.
Let off some fireworks until chris nearly popped everyones eardrums ha-ha.Also shuan the wonderfull brazillian-ozzie,good on ya matey.
And a highlight was having a fire on the beach one evening.Buying a case of longnecks,getting 25 hamburgers brought to the beach and havin a jam on the beach.I had a band of local kids playing drums on bamboo and anytjing that they could get ahold of.It was a magic scene that i wish i caught on film but the memorie will live with me forever.And of course there is so much more to tell of this place.I visit it still when there is a swell as im based only an hour and a half up the road and go for doris's fish,rice and chips accompanied by the coldest beers in peru.
Chicama in the desert of peru is surely a magical place.
When i arrived at this place i ran into the town pisshead,his name is jimmy-aka "ceviche".He is from the states but lives in chicama-aka "Puerto Malibrigo".
Jimmy can be found on any given day from seven in the morning to about seven at night.Sunglass's on,beard,messed up white hair and without a doubt a glass of beer in his hand.This guy was the best beer drinker i have seen for a while,no lies,eight am and on it.
Anyway i talked to him within the first ten minutes of getting into town,told him i was ozzy and he said "oh another ozzie".Turned out there were other ozzies here ant not just from oz but from Torquay.I asked if he had blonde hair and ol jimmy said,"oh brock,yeah i know brock" in a pissed drawn out californian accent.
I hit the hostel on the cliff "El Hombre" and was greeted with brocky and another dood i had met in torquay last year.Good doods everywhere and el hombre was to become a temporary second home with Doris and her sister Maria.They looked after us well and we paid them back by buying loads of beer from them.
Now to the wave.Well i had never seen such a surreal sight in my life,and this was to last everyday i awoke there.The ocean meets the desert with a big sandy cliff running kilometers out to a headland.Along the base of this long massive headland lies the longest breaking lefthanded wave in the world.
No shit photo's and words can't do this place justice,it is longer than long,its on another scale.
The wave is more often than not small but breaks with perfect shape,allways clean and offshore,little tubes,no crowds and obviously very long.I never thought it possible but the walk back to the point actually gets really annoying because of its length.
To surf the wave you go past the point,paddle around with the current,wait for a set and surf the whole set for 1.8 kms.If you fall off you just get the next wave,no paddling back out.A good run is two to three good waves and an exeptional run is one wave but your legs really do hurt after half way.The shortest wave here will still be longer than anything you have ever ridden anywhere.It sure is good practice.sooo many waves.
Sounds like a lie huh,i did'nt beleive this place actually existed even while i was there.It felt like a vortex in time,a dream or a surfers subconcious playground,completely surreal.
I had sooo many memorable waves here but nothing big,just perfection.I even travelled nine hours by bus to buy a surfboard just for this wave.
I met good people there also,alex the grom from california who's auntie runs the hostel on the point(talk about a set up surfing life,that kid is set).Met lotsa ozzies,on another visit ran into jule's who is a friend from australia.Did a little salsa lesson with brockie's new girlfriend he-he.
Let off some fireworks until chris nearly popped everyones eardrums ha-ha.Also shuan the wonderfull brazillian-ozzie,good on ya matey.
And a highlight was having a fire on the beach one evening.Buying a case of longnecks,getting 25 hamburgers brought to the beach and havin a jam on the beach.I had a band of local kids playing drums on bamboo and anytjing that they could get ahold of.It was a magic scene that i wish i caught on film but the memorie will live with me forever.And of course there is so much more to tell of this place.I visit it still when there is a swell as im based only an hour and a half up the road and go for doris's fish,rice and chips accompanied by the coldest beers in peru.
Chicama in the desert of peru is surely a magical place.
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