Another surf storie here and probably a few more to come as i have come to peru solely to surf.
When i arrived at this place i ran into the town pisshead,his name is jimmy-aka "ceviche".He is from the states but lives in chicama-aka "Puerto Malibrigo".
Jimmy can be found on any given day from seven in the morning to about seven at night.Sunglass's on,beard,messed up white hair and without a doubt a glass of beer in his hand.This guy was the best beer drinker i have seen for a while,no lies,eight am and on it.
Anyway i talked to him within the first ten minutes of getting into town,told him i was ozzy and he said "oh another ozzie".Turned out there were other ozzies here ant not just from oz but from Torquay.I asked if he had blonde hair and ol jimmy said,"oh brock,yeah i know brock" in a pissed drawn out californian accent.
I hit the hostel on the cliff "El Hombre" and was greeted with brocky and another dood i had met in torquay last year.Good doods everywhere and el hombre was to become a temporary second home with Doris and her sister Maria.They looked after us well and we paid them back by buying loads of beer from them.
Now to the wave.Well i had never seen such a surreal sight in my life,and this was to last everyday i awoke there.The ocean meets the desert with a big sandy cliff running kilometers out to a headland.Along the base of this long massive headland lies the longest breaking lefthanded wave in the world.
No shit photo's and words can't do this place justice,it is longer than long,its on another scale.
The wave is more often than not small but breaks with perfect shape,allways clean and offshore,little tubes,no crowds and obviously very long.I never thought it possible but the walk back to the point actually gets really annoying because of its length.
To surf the wave you go past the point,paddle around with the current,wait for a set and surf the whole set for 1.8 kms.If you fall off you just get the next wave,no paddling back out.A good run is two to three good waves and an exeptional run is one wave but your legs really do hurt after half way.The shortest wave here will still be longer than anything you have ever ridden anywhere.It sure is good practice.sooo many waves.
Sounds like a lie huh,i did'nt beleive this place actually existed even while i was there.It felt like a vortex in time,a dream or a surfers subconcious playground,completely surreal.
I had sooo many memorable waves here but nothing big,just perfection.I even travelled nine hours by bus to buy a surfboard just for this wave.
I met good people there also,alex the grom from california who's auntie runs the hostel on the point(talk about a set up surfing life,that kid is set).Met lotsa ozzies,on another visit ran into jule's who is a friend from australia.Did a little salsa lesson with brockie's new girlfriend he-he.
Let off some fireworks until chris nearly popped everyones eardrums ha-ha.Also shuan the wonderfull brazillian-ozzie,good on ya matey.
And a highlight was having a fire on the beach one evening.Buying a case of longnecks,getting 25 hamburgers brought to the beach and havin a jam on the beach.I had a band of local kids playing drums on bamboo and anytjing that they could get ahold of.It was a magic scene that i wish i caught on film but the memorie will live with me forever.And of course there is so much more to tell of this place.I visit it still when there is a swell as im based only an hour and a half up the road and go for doris's fish,rice and chips accompanied by the coldest beers in peru.
Chicama in the desert of peru is surely a magical place.
